If you want to view a slideshow of a selection of my photos from Egypt go to this link:
http://s884.photobucket.com/albums/ac41/Londongurl92/Christmas%2009%20in%20Egypt/?albumview=slideshowMy blog on Egypt is slowly forming. Here are days one and two, check back soon and I will edit this post and attach the next couple of days.
December 16th, 2009
The day I had dreamed about since fourth grade had finally come. After studying about Egypt with Mrs Rhodes I begged my dad to pleeeaase take me to Egypt one day to see the pyramids and mummies. And guess what? My dad was ACTUALLY taking me! After months of research and planning we finally had the trip all put together. We were traveling with the Hoffmans, some good family friends with kids Emily and Ethan’s age. Everyone was very excited, our suitcases were filled to the brim with swimsuits, shorts, sunscreen, and endless memory cards. We jittered all the way to the airport and anxiously watched movies on our ipods as we waited in Starbucks for our delayed plane.
Finally, the moment we had all been waiting for… we boarded the plane! Emily and I shared music and ate the last salad we planned on having till we set foot back on Kuwaiti soil. When we arrived in Cairo, Ethan raced off the plane and dashed ahead of us so that he could be the very first to cross into Egypt.
Once we collected our baggage we found Mohammed, our travel agent waiting for us with a lovely mini bus all to ourselves. He explained our schedule, and pointed out landmarks as we whizzed through Cairo to the West Bank. Though it was dark and hard to see much, the poverty was immediately present. We saw many shacks under the overpass, and lots of buildings with paint peeling and laundry fluttering in the evening dust storm.
We pulled up to our hotel in Giza and immediately felt pampered. Our friends had insisted on a 5 star hotel outside of the city, so we were staying at Le Meridean. The lobby was beautifully decorated for Christmas with an enormous Christmas tree, and there was a little band playing in the corner next to the magnificent staircase.
Our friends met us in the lobby and introduced us to Abdul, our tour guide. Abdul is not only a tour guide, but also an Egyptologist who can read hieroglyphics. Abdul is also the overseer of Kom Ombo temple that we would be touring later. He was very warm and friendly and wanted to ensure we had a fabulous stay in Egypt. He promised to be very flexible with us and make it interesting for everyone.
The hotel was so huge we first went to the wrong side in attempts to find our room. Finally a concierge helped us find our way. He was very friendly and chatty and helped us settle in. As soon as our suitcases were in the room he immediately waved us out into the hall and said “come come, follow me, I will show you the pyramids!” We chased after him down the hall as he threw open the doors to the balcony. And indeed, there they were in the dim evening light we could just make out the outline of the magnificent pyramids. They were HUGE! We quickly ran back to show mom and dad, but when we returned it was as if they had vanished because they were completely blacked out by the dust storm. I covered my face with my pashmina and tried to point out the outline of where they should be as mom started jumping up and down, in utter awe that we were at the base of the pyramids!
After we gave up trying to see the pyramids through the dust we met our friends downstairs for dinner. Sadly it was not an Egyptian restaurant, but the TexMex. It felt wrong to be sitting in a Texan restaurant eating fajitas in Egypt, but we knew we shouldn’t leave the hotel and venture out on our own. It was a fun dinner with the waiter constantly coming over and showing us magic tricks and science experiments. Our waiter was deemed the mad scientist, but Emily sure enjoyed him as he taught her how to make a dead chicken out of her napkin.
By 10pm we settled into our rooms, set the alarm for 6:30 and fell asleep anticipating our tour of the Pyramids in the morning.
December 17, 2009
At 6:30am we began to file into the shower and went downstairs for an amazing breakfast spread. There was every food you could possible want for breakfast. And it was good. We were told to eat eat eat and fill up ‘cuz who knew when we would stop for a bite again.
At 8:00 we met Abdul downstairs and loaded our bus for the short drive up the Pyramids. We were surprised when a guard joined us on the bus. The man was from the police, for some reason he was supposed to follow us all day. Ethan noticed immediately that he had a gun, but we were promised that the guard was simply there as decoration. As we pulled up Abdul hopped off the bus to run talk to somehow, and somehow he managed to get us VIP access. We were very impressed by this. Apparently his brother is the overseer of the Pyramids. We drove right up and laughed at the other tourists walking. It felt surreal as we stood at the base of the Pyramids gazing up at such magnificence. Even as he began to explain the theory as to how the pyramids were constructed, they were so wondrous it is hard to fathom. It was just mind blowing to be standing in front of something so amazing, that was constructed in 2551 BC! Now they were some pretty smart people! Dolores kept repeating how insane it was that the difference on the sides was less than 58mm. We climbed the base of it and struggled up over the huge blocks. Emily and Ethan even decided to venture up a little higher even though the sign specifically said “No Climbing.” But you don’t ask for permission, just forgiveness right?
After Khufu’s Pyramid we wandered around to the side to some of the Noble’s tombs. These are not open to the public, but our VIP status got us in. It was wonderful to be the only ones in the small tomb. We had more time to explore, and Abdul said that even though you weren’t “supposed” to take photos in the tombs, he would let us slip. He even positioned us for a family photo. I was very impressed when I saw my first hieroglyphics carved into the stone. They were just so perfect! Somehow the paint inside the tomb was original and had been preserved through time. Everything just left me in utter awe.
We continued walking around the pyramids and viewed the Queen’s Pyramids. As we peered into the pit where Khufu’s mothers burial provisions were moved we could see the Pyramids of Dendara in the distance. I have never before felt surrounded by so much history!
Though this was the first stop on our long list of historical sites I was already getting irked by the vendors set up everywhere. Women were selling headdress on the ruins, and men were running around trying to sell cheesy stuffed camels. Boys circled the pyramids with their camels and horses offering tourists rides for marked up prices. Because we were Western we were seen as very rich and everyone tried to milk us for our money the rest of the trip.
We refused to give into the temptation to of a camel ride around the pyramids until the bus drove us a bit away from them for a panoramic view. Abdul had a friend who took pictures of all of us, and then took us to his fleet of camels. We piled on to the beasts and clung excitedly as they quickly shot up into the air. Paul and I rode on separate camels that were tied together and had one boy guiding them at the front. Paul was absolutely scared to death on his camel and talked the entire ride. He named the camels, called out the security guards on their camels, and went absolutely crazy. Ethan was loving it, and trying to straddle the camel in different poses, eventually finding a way to recline. I rode with no hands (not that hard) so I could take endless snapshots of everyone and everything. It was just absolutely incredible, riding a camel with family and friends and heading towards the Great Pyramid! Nothing can compare to the way I felt at that moment. Big smile, hair whipping in the wind, and endless photographs to prove it all!
The ride was about 20 minutes to the base of the pyramids where we disembarked. While Ethan made faces and tried to scare the camels, resulting in scaring himself, Emily and JC pleaded with their camel herder to please take them faster. The boy climbed up onto another camel, and made the camels canter around the pyramids. Their shrieks of delight were hilarious.
After the camels we piled back into the bus and drove to the opposite side of the Pyramids to view the Great Sphinx. It was indeed magnificent. I finally got to behold the Sphinx. THE Sphinx. Staring at him in wonder I was curious as to who all had passed under its gaze. Certainly many famous historical figures had, and now Molly Spessert can claim that she gazed into the eyes of the Sphinx.
Once we had toured the rest of the Giza Plateau we walked back to the bus. Abdul was laughing at us, claiming most tourists he brings spend about an hour, and we had spent over three! However, Abdul seemed to enjoy our company as much as we enjoyed his, and we were very appreciative of all the history he was sharing with us.
Before leaving Cairo we went to the Papyrus Factory. We laughed at the little man who showed us how papyrus was made. I must say, the ancient Egyptians certainly were very clever. The papyrus in the shop was a combination of beautiful artwork of ancient scenes in burial chambers, and of course the kitchy tourist ones with scarab beetles and your name in hieroglyphics next to it. We were given “Egyptian hospitality” and enjoyed sipping the mint tea while avoiding the thick tea leaves at the bottom.
Along the way to Memphis and Saqqara we stopped for some Egyptian bread and cheese. We dipped into the cooler of drinks provided for us, and had a picnic in the back of the bus. Our first stop was the museum at Memphis. The statue of Ramses was astounding. It’s sheer magnitude combined with the lack of damage over time made it very impressive. You had to climb up a balcony just to walk around and be able to see him. We saw many other statues in Memphis, and enjoyed posing next to a Sphinx and admiring the Hathorian columns.
The Step Pyramid of King Zoser at Saqqara was just as I had imagined it; enormous and impressive steps creating the burial place of a king. Egyptologists are still trying to find their way through the maze of chambers and have yet to work their way to the bottom and the burial chamber. As we were in Egypt, there was sand everywhere. In the ruins of the temple at Saqqara the sand made beautiful patterns alongside the columns.
Before heading back to our hotel to rest for dinner we went to an Egyptian Carpet School. We watched the students weave rugs from silk and wool. Emily even got to attempt to knot the wool rug into the design of King Tutankhamen’s funerary mask. Again we received the Egyptian hospitality and sipped hibiscus juice while we were shown upstairs to view the finished products. The instructors tossed the silk rugs in the air to show us how they shimmer and the colors change in the light. Dad found his favorite pattern, the Garden of Eden, which he has seen in Kuwait. It may be beautiful, but we are not quite ready to invest in it yet.
On the way back I got my first taste of Pharaoh’s Curse and collapsed exhausted and sick back at the hotel. I dosed up on a selection of meds from the little pharmacy we had brought, and rested until dinner time. I still didn’t feel very well, but wouldn’t miss anything.
We requested an Egyptian restaurant rather than more TexMex, so Abdul had the bus wind through little streets in the heart of Giza towards the restaurant. The people were out and about, sitting on the sidewalk, driving their donkey carts, doing laundry, and going about their evening duties. It was cute to observe the life in this district rather than take a direct larger and quicker road. The restaurant was cute and we were well served. I still can’t forget the taste of the best lentil soup I have ever had. The soup itself nearly revived me. We also enjoyed chicken, beef, lamb, rice, zaziki on our bread, traditional tea, and many other little dishes and ordure’s.
The streets were alive and the kids ventured outside to watch the musicians on the streets until the moms brought them back in upon realization that our security guards had followed them outside. We wolfed down the rest of our meal in time to run over to the Pyramids to watch the sound and light show.
The show may have been a bit cheesy, but it was worthwhile. We enjoyed the laser lights on the Pyramids, and the narration by the Sphinx. The Sphinx told tales of all who had ventured past his paws, and the archaeologists who finally brought him once more out of the sand.
The kids grew a bit restless, but I enjoyed the show and spent forever working the settings on my camera to get a decent shot of the Pyramid as it shone blue. Once it was over we all went back to the hotel, charged our cameras, and set our alarms for another full day.